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Northern Laos

The Mountains of Lao

Despite pockets of the country seeing much economic development over the last two decades, Laos remains a country somewhat lost in time. It is a mountainous and tranquil land, where for much of the time the only sound heard by travellers is that of bird song. 
This cycling tour is an adventurous loop through the north of the nation, passing through ancient jungle where tigers roam, agricultural land that is home to minority groups, past mysterious prehistoric archaeological sites, and the craters and bombshells of a more modern era that bring home the stark horrors of war. 
The byways on which we ride are quiet, winding, hilly, and tranquil, and the towns at which we stay vary from the back of beyond to tourist comfort. 

At a Glance


Total Days: 14

Cycling Days: 9

Difficulty: 8/10

Daily Average: 87km

Off-Road: ~10%

Max. Alt.: 1600m


2025: 23 Feb - 07 Mar: $2900.00


Overview

The classic cycling tour of Laos was for many years a brilliant ride. From Vientiane north on highway 13, which, despite being the nation's main north/south artery was always blissfully quiet, the ride took in stunning scenery and some great stops along the way. Alas, the ravages of development have seen this route go from wonderfully peaceful, deserted, and friendly, to a busier nosier affair where passing cyclists are no longer the novelty they once were. Time to move on

And so the time came to look for a route that harks back to a bygone time when roads were bereft of traffic, the air was clean, and peace hung over the valleys and hills of the stunning scenery through which we pass. 

From Vientiane, we now transfer east for a couple of hours before being our cycling adventure north. The roads are quiet and mountainous, and the land we pass through varies from rural to preserved jungle - this is Laos off the beaten track. However, we also visit several of Laos' tourist attractions, including the Plain of Jars at Phonsavan, the laidback riverside resort town of Nong Kiaw, and, via a Mekong River cruise, we end in one of Southeast Asia's most characterful towns, Luang Prabang. 

Highlights

Highlights include the nation’s capital Vientiane, The Plain of Jars at Phonsavan, laidback Nong Kiaw, a river cruise on the Mekong, and the wonderful World Heritage town of Luang Prabang. But above all of this is the challenging cycling through a region that modernity has mostly passed by. Some long days in the saddle and long challenging climbs are rewarded with long descents and ever-friendly greetings from the local people of Laos - all as we cycle through some of Asia's most glorious scenery. 

My 10th trip with Painted Roads is a good indication of how well planned and run the tours are. Laos was no exception. Great scenery through remote wilderness areas. Riding through the many villages we encountered friendly people and happy smiling children keen to weave and say hello. An excellent off the beaten track cycling adventure.

David Morrison on Northern Laos

Difficulty

We have 10 days of cycling and an average daily distance of 95 kilometres. There are three days in excess of 100 kilometres, with the longest day being 145 kilometres. We have 8 cycling days before our rest day (although three of those days will see us finished by lunchtime (35KMS, 55KMS, & 50KMS), and there are numerous long climbs. The roads are generally sealed, but the maintenance is far from Western standards with the result that surfaces can range from pristine billiard-table tarmac to gravel, to potholed, to possibly (but hopefully not) mud. 

Accommodation 

In Vientiane and Luang Prabang we use comfortable characterful resorts. Elsewhere we use the best hotel in town. This ranges from a fine riverside resort for our rest day in Nong Kiaw, to more basic, simple accommodation in small towns along the way. All accommodation has AC and WiFi (at lease in theory) but, at the time or research, one or two places had squat toilets and cold showers. 

The accommodation was basic at times, but actually extremely good overall and delightful on a few of the evenings. And the legendary Painted Roads snack breaks and lunches, generally on the road side outside someone’s house, were great as always, and the locals were so happy (and intrigued!) to see us. And when we weren’t cycling, the rest day in the exquisite Nong Khiaw (with great hiking to the viewpoints) & the river trip on the Mekong to Luang Prabang were lovely. Many thanks David. 

Paul. Yorkshire England on Northern Laos

Joining instructions

The tour begins in Vientiane, the capital of Laos. On arrival, you will be met at Vientiane's Wattay International Airport (code: VTE) and transferred to our joining hotel in the city where you will be greeted by your tour leader.

Departure is from Luang Prabang International Airport (code: LPQ). Most flights will come via Bangkok, either Suvarnabhumi (code: BKK) for long-haul, or Don Muang (code: DMK) from where more local budget flights operate. 

You will need a visa to enter Lao, for most nationalities this is available on arrival, if you are in any doubt please be sure to check in advance.

Included in this tour

All accommodation, Western tour leader, local guide, support vehicle, meals on cycling days, snacks during cycling days, drinking water whilst cycling.

Not Included: International flights, visas, bicycle (rental bicycle available), food and drinks on non-cycling days, alcohol, food and drink away from the group activities.

I would totally recommend Laos as a cycling destination, the scenery was superb, mountainous and lush, the food was always tasty, and we received a heroes welcome from the kids in every village we cycled through. Loved the fact that we only saw other Westerners on the start day, the end day, and the rest day, the remaining time it was just us & our crew experiencing the beautiful rural landscapes and culture.

Paul Emms. on Northern Laos

Bicycle Advice

At PaintedRoads, we hold firmly to the opinion that using your own bike, the bike on which you feel at home and comfortable is the finest way to enjoy a cycling adventure.

Touring bikes, mountain bikes, and gravel all work for this tour, with gravel bikes and cross-country mountain bikes being the preferred choice of mount. The roads are, theoretically, sealed, but the surface quality is in a state of constant flux to the stage where a previously well-sealed road may now be potholed, gravel, or even mud. We recommend a minimum tyre size of 700x40mm; if in doubt, opt for a 45mm to 50mm tyre for more comfort on poor road surfaces. 

There are plenty of long climbs (in excess or 15KMS) and the temperatures are often in the 30s, so please be sure that your bicycle has sensible gearing - this is not the Tour de France, this is an adventure. If in doubt please ask for advice.

Southeast Asia is generally a warm place so the ability to carry one or two water bottles is essential (either on your bike or in a backpack). Our back-up vehicle carries tools, but for those competent with repairs bringing your own pump, puncture kit, and multi-tool is recommended as it would speed up repairs and minor adjustments. If bringing your own bike please bring along a couple of spare inner tubes, puncture repair kit, spare brake pads, and a few spare spokes that fit your wheels (please note that different wheels have different size spokes).  If in doubt please ask at your local bike shop.

A means of carrying your camera, sunblock etc is also useful – either an on-bike bag, handlebar or saddlebag for example or a lightweight day-pack.

•Recommendation: Although our hire bikes come equipped with a saddle if you have a saddle you use and are happy with it is strongly recommended that you use it on tour. If you use SPD type shoes please bring your own matching pedals. We are happy to fit these for you. You may also like to bring bar ends if you use them at home.

Suitable Bicycle: MTB, Touring Bike, Cyclocross/Gravel Bike, Road Bike

ESSENTIAL! Please be sure that your bicycle is in perfect condition before you leave home. Again, if in doubt please consult your local bike shop.

Print Itinerary

Day 1. Arrive Vientiane 

On arrival at Vientiane’s Wattay International Airport (airport code VTE), you will be met by a driver who will drive you to our city centre hotel, where your tour leader will be waiting to greet you.

Cycling 0KMS

Ascent 0M

Descent 0M

Meals 

Day 2. Vientiane to Tathom - Transfer.

To avoid the traffic and road 13 out of Laos capital, Vientiane, today will be dedicated to the five-hour vehicle transfer to the small town of Tathom. Upon arrival at our guesthouse in Tathom, we can prepare our bicycles for the adventure to come.

Cycling 0KMS

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Meals BDLS

Day 3. Tathom to Muang Khoun

Our day begins with a peaceful and gently undulating ride through beautiful rural scenery. At 47 kilometres, we reach the base of the first challenging climb of the tour, as we gain 800 metres during a gentle 22-kilometre climb. We then undulate to a small guest house in the quiet town of Muang Khoun.

Cycling 90KMS

Ascent 1800M

Descent 900M

Meals BDLS

Day 4. Muang Khoun to Phonsavan via Plain of Jars. 

An altogether gentler day today as we take a short flat ride to the tourist town of Phonsavan. Along the way, we visit the Plain of Jars, an area awash with large, hand-carved stone jars, the origins of which are a mystery. We are also passing through one of the most heavily bombed regions in the history of warfare with the result of badly cratered land all around, and some wonderfully creative recycling of American bombshells.

Cycling 50KMS

Ascent 180M

Descent 1300M

Meals BDLS

Day 5. Phonsavan to Muang Kham

With pine trees and giant hardwoods vying for space amidst bamboo, all set to a backdrop of green rice fields today's scene could perhaps be summed up as topical low alpine. We are now riding at 1100 meters which helps to keep a cycling-friendly climate, which, combined with just 65 kilometres of riding including a 20 kilometres descent means another relaxing day on the bikes.

Cycling 65KMS

Ascent 330M

Descent 840M

Meals BDLS

Day 6. Muang Kham to Namneaun

A pleasant few kilometres of warm-up across a wide fertile valley lead us to today's longest climb which sees us gain 1100 metres over 18 kilometres. Now at 1500 metres above sea level, we are treated to stunning views, as for 50 kilometres we undulate along a ridge. Our day ends with a winding twenty-kilometre descent to the valley floor and our resting place for the night. 

Cycling 85KMS

Ascent 2300M

Descent 2350M

Meals BDLS

Day 7. Namneaun to Vieng Thong. 

A cheeky little six-kilometre climb will warm you up for today's major event in the form of a 1000-metre altitude gain over a distance of 25KMS. All of this on a road all but bereft of motorcars as we wind our jungle vegetation and agricultural land. The villages we pass through along the way consist of the simple homes of the Kms people, and after 45 kilometres we enter a protected area where the jungle becomes much deeper and thicker. The day draws to an end with a 15-kilometre downhill to our guest house. 

Cycling 65KMS

Ascent 1750M

Descent 1650M

Meals BDLS

Day 8: Vieng Thong to Vieng Kham

With 120 kilometres and more than 2500 metres of climbing on winding rural roads between available accommodations, we must enjoy the views of the first 25KMS today from the comfort of our support vehicle. 

The road is so light of traffic that seeing a car is a noteworthy event, and the jungle is now so dense it is one of the few places in SE Asia where tigers still roam wild. The meandering valley of the Nam Seng River leads us to the day's final climb before descending for 20 km to our night’s lodgings.

Cycling 120/95KMS

Ascent 2500/1500M

Descent 2770/2300M

Meals BDLS

Day 9: Vieng Kham to Nong Kiaw

Following yesterday’s somewhat challenging day in the saddle, today’s shorter distance will undoubtedly come as a relief as a gentle climb followed by a descent towards Nong Kiaw will see you in our riverside resort in time for lunch.

Cycling 50KMS

Ascent 1000M

Descent 1100M

Meals BDLS

Day 10: Nong Kiaw - Rest Day.

A pleasant, small village on the banks of the Nam Ou River Nong Kiaw has built up around the needs of back-packers and has just the sort of laid-back vibe a weary cyclist needs on a well-earned rest day. And by now rest is much needed, and where better than chilling at our riverside resort, or wandering around this convivial little village?

Cycling 0KMS

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Meals B

Day 11: Nong Kiaw to Oudomxai

A flat 35 kilometres takes us to our first break for the day. Straight afterwards we embark on the first of the day's two notable climbs as a perfectly surfaced, Chinese roads twists ever upward to lunch. The afternoon features a sweeping descent and another, shorter climb through beautiful Laotian scenery before the final 18 kilometres downhill leads us to the town of Oudomxai with its industrious Chinese influence. 

Cycling 115KMS

Ascent 2500M

Descent 22000M

Meals BDLS

Day 12: Oudomxai to Pak Beng

Fortunately, with 145 kilometres ahead of us today, by the time we have our first break the lion's share of the climbing will be behind us. The rest of the day gently undulates downward through an area of agricultural land and rubber plantations as we make our way towards the Mekong River.

Cycling 145KMS

Ascent 1700M

Descent 2000M

Meals BDLS

Day 13: Pak Beng to Luang Prabang - River Cruise

With the cycling now behind us we can relax and enjoy a classic river trip aboard our private charter riverboat. Read a book, enjoy a beer, and relax and watch the jungles of Lao drift by as we make our way slowly towards one of the gems of Southeast Asia, the delightful town of Luang Prabang.

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Meals BDLS

Day 14. Tour Ends.

The tour officially ends after breakfast today. For those leaving straight away, we will provide a transfer to the nearby international airport. However, Luang Prabang is not a town for leaving in a hurry; it is a town to remain at lingering, wandering amongst the temples and colonial architecture, and relaxing at delightful little cafés. We are, of course, more than happy to arrange any extra nights accommodation you may require.

Cycling 0KMS

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Meals B

Key

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    Dates Price Availability

    2025: 23 Feb - 07 Mar

    $2900.00
    *Single Suppl.: $395.00

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    Bicycle Hire

    Rental bikes are not available for this tour.

    *Single Supplement.

    The prices quoted above are for a twin room share basis. If you are travelling alone you will be paired up with another lone traveler of the same gender to share with. Single room occupancy can be arranged, the single supplement rate shown is per person.